The redpoint is the process of working a route — learning its sequence, building the fitness to execute it, and finally sending it. It's the sport climber's primary achievement: a route at your limit, on-sighted or redpointed. The redpoint process is systematic: it's not just climbing the route over and over, it's structured training that addresses specific weaknesses the route exposes.
Breaking Down the Route
Before training, break the route into its distinct sections: the opening sequence, the rest position(s), the crux section(s), and the exit. Each section requires different preparation. The opening section requires power and efficiency — you're fresh and can afford to climb hard. The crux section requires power endurance. The exit requires endurance because you're pumped.
Evaluate your failure points honestly: where did you fall on your last attempt? Was it a strength issue (couldn't hold the hold), a technique issue (wrong beta), or an endurance issue (pumped out before the anchors)? The answer determines your training focus.
Training Cycles for Redpoint
The most effective redpoint training structure: 4-6 week cycles ending with a dedicated redpoint attempt day. Each week: 1-2 onsight/flash attempts at your project level, 1-2 specific training sessions targeting the route's crux, 1-2 complementary sessions for general fitness (ARC training, limit bouldering).
ARC (Aerobic Restoration and Capillary) training: climbing moderate terrain (2-3 grades below your max) for 20-45 minutes without resting. This builds the aerobic base that sustains endurance. It's particularly effective for routes with sustained sections.
The Sending Phase
When you're ready to send, manage your attempts deliberately. Don't just climb the route until you're too tired to try. Structure your session around 3-5 quality attempts with adequate rest (10-15 minutes between attempts). Go into each attempt with a specific plan: visualization of the sequence, commitment to the beta, focus on execution.
Failure Analysis
After each failed attempt, analyze why you fell. If it's a repeated failure at the same point, it's not a strength issue — it's a technique or strategy issue. Review the beta: is there a different way to use that hold? Is your foot position correct? Could a heel hook or knee bar reduce the load on your fingers? The solution to most redpoint problems is technique refinement, not more fingerboarding.